Looking for something a bit different for your next family break? The Bradley family swapped the usual routine for four days aboard a cruiser on Ireland’s inland waterways, exploring Lough Derg by boat with two energetic kids in tow. Here’s what they made of their family holiday with a difference.
I love the water. But I love it best when I’m looking at it from dry land. Spending four days on a boat was not my idea of a holiday, so it was a total surprise to find it was one of the most enjoyable, relaxing and exciting breaks I’ve ever had. Total convert!
How I Ended Up on a Boat for 4 Days!
It was all my husband’s idea, of course. His parents had taken a cruiser along Lough Erne as a 50th wedding anniversary present from their kids. We heard so much about how exhilarating it was, and how it made travelling so convenient.
Patrick caught the bug and began researching routes and cruisers so he could pick out interesting things to keep our two kids entertained. They’re 7 and 9, full of energy and always up for something new. I found myself warming to the idea of spending my evenings sitting on deck, watching the sun go down with a glass of wine nearby.
Packing Up
I packed the typical combination of clothes and toys for a trip anywhere in Ireland — wellies, swimming suits, raincoats, sunglasses, hats and flip flops. You know the drill. We packed the essential foods too — coco pops for the kids, wine for us — and decided to start our trip at the market town of Portumna, motoring around lower Lough Derg to take in the beautiful towns of Mountshannon and Killaloe.
Pleasantly Surprised
I was seriously pleasantly surprised at the size of the boat. Stepping in, there was a great little seating area with a foldaway table for mealtimes, and the funkiest little galley kitchen with just the right amount of space to throw meals together.
Right next to it was a compact toilet, then a fabulous little cabin for the kids tucked into the front of the boat. (I still haven’t worked out if that’s stern or bow — turns out you don’t need to learn all the lingo to get by.) At the back was a neat little cabin with two beds and an ensuite. The couch doubles as a pull-out bed, which was perfect for us, as Patrick’s parents wanted in on the act and joined us for one of the nights.
While we got an introduction to the essentials of operating the boat, plus some top tips on the toilet and rubbish situation, the kids got stuck in straight away, deciding where all their vital teddies and wrestling figures should go.
Exploring Portumna
We couldn’t leave Portumna, where we picked up our boat, without taking some time out in the forest park, which has some beautiful walks and cycle paths. We packed a picnic and spent a couple of hours there before heading over to nearby Portumna Castle and Gardens — a stunning building, still being restored, with a kitchen garden and guided tours.
We stocked up on some seriously tasty food in the café before heading back to the boat. We decided on an early night, ready to head off first thing to our first destination: Dromineer.
Casting Off
The first time you wake up on a boat, you know something’s different. The light is something else, and the gentle rock of the boat makes waking up pretty pleasant. After a quick breakfast on deck, we got the show on the road and tentatively chugged the boat out of the harbour.
The first couple of miles on the boat are so exhilarating. What you don’t expect is the completely different perspective you get from the water. Unlike driving, where the countryside and traffic whizz by in a blur, you feel you have all the time in the world to notice nature’s little details.
We spotted a heron storming ahead of the boat with its dinner in its mouth. The boys were thrilled to spot ponies chomping on the grassy river banks, and we got some great views of a group of flying geese.
Learning the Ropes
Operating the boat is surprisingly easy once you’re shown what to do. As long as you know where you’re going and stay in line with the markers, it’s a real pleasure to navigate.
With our unpredictable weather, having two operating options — one wheel inside, one outside — was really handy. You could be cruising along with the sun on your face, and five minutes later be ducking down to take the onboard wheel to avoid getting soaked.
Exploring Dromineer
It didn’t take long to reach Dromineer, where we moored up, had our first go at tying the ropes the right way, and headed straight for Aqua Splash, Lough Derg’s floating activity centre.
We all got kitted out in wetsuits, put our life vests back on, listened to a safety talk from staff, and got stuck in. The boys loved it and could have spent the entire day jumping, bouncing, sliding and swimming around the massive inflatable play park.
After a quick lunch, we all tried the paddleboards, kayaks and pedal boats. It was probably the highlight of the trip, even for me and my whole “on the water, not in the water” approach.
We headed back to the boat to dry off, and while the boys got some screen time, Patrick and I rested on deck — me with my book, him with a stack of maps working out what to do next. Wedded bliss.
We all cleaned up and headed back into the village for dinner, filling up on fish and chips and seafood chowder, and caught some live music before wandering back to the boat.
Exploring Killaloe
Next morning, we motored down to one of my favourite Co Clare spots, the medieval village of Killaloe. I love visiting here, but cruising up on a boat and having the freedom to just hop off and explore was a whole new experience.
Separated from the town of Ballina by the River Shannon, it’s a lovely mix of old and new, with a great vibe and a farmers’ market on Sunday mornings. We arrived on a beautiful bright day, so we took to the hills for a walk around Ballycuggaran.
There’s lots to do here — you can get back on the water for a paddleboarding session, or check out the local shops, cafés and restaurants.
After a delicious lunch, we headed over for a fishing experience for kids, where the boys got a lesson before being taken out in a fishing boat to practise what they’d learned.
Only one parent could accompany them, so I had a terrible time drinking coffee and reading the paper. They didn’t catch anything, which I was delighted about, as I had no intention of gutting and cooking a fish in our little galley kitchen. Or any kitchen, really!
Next Stop: Exploring Mountshannon
After a pretty packed day, we headed back to the boat to meet Patrick’s parents, who were joining us for the trip up to our next stop.
The boys loved having their grandparents on board, showing off how everything worked and filling them in on everything we’d done. We cooked on the boat that night and felt completely secluded as the weather changed and rain lashed against the tiny windows.
The next morning, as we headed back north to Mountshannon, the clouds cleared and the day brightened up. Patrick’s dad took the wheel, and we had a lovely journey up Lough Derg, picking out swans, ducks and moorhens, with a fresh breeze in our faces and warm cups of coffee in our hands.
Mountshannon is a lovely little village with plenty of history. On the way in, we cruised by Holy Island, an important monastic settlement in ancient Ireland, with several church ruins and an old stone where people once pledged their love. Not quite interesting enough for the kids, though, who were more keen to visit the local park’s mini maze and play area.
Last Night
As it was our last night, we headed out for pizzas and fresh salads — right up my street.
The next morning, we headed back up to Portumna to exchange our little, moving home for our far less cosy car, and I definitely felt a pang.
The Verdict
I felt like we’d been away for ages, completely refreshed, and quite amazed at how much we’d packed in. That’s what I loved about cruising — it gives you so much freedom to try out loads of things and be somewhere new every day with minimal effort. And if you don’t fancy joining in the water activities, that’s grand too — just chill out on deck and don’t move a muscle.
I’m definitely more of a fan of the water now — not so much being in the water, but definitely on the water. And that’s good enough, isn’t it?
If a slow, screen-light break with plenty of space to roam sounds like your kind of family holiday, Ireland’s inland waterways are well worth exploring.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is a boating holiday on Ireland’s waterways suitable for young kids?
Yes — families with children of various ages take cruiser holidays on Ireland’s lakes and rivers. Boats used for family hire are designed to be manageable, and safety briefings and life vests are standard before you set off. As with any water-based trip, adult supervision around the boat and at moorings is essential.
Do you need boating experience to hire a cruiser?
No previous experience is needed. Before you head off, you’ll get a full introduction to operating the boat, mooring, and handling everyday practicalities like the toilet and waste systems.
What’s there to do onshore during a waterways holiday?
Plenty — the towns and villages along Lough Derg and the wider waterways offer forest walks, castles and gardens, playgrounds, watersports centres, farmers’ markets, and family-friendly restaurants, so there’s a good mix of time on the water and time exploring on land.
How many days do you need for a trip like this?
The Bradley family’s trip was four days, which was enough time to visit several villages, fit in watersports, fishing and sightseeing, and still have relaxed days on deck. Longer or shorter cruises are also possible depending on the route.
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